Van Flooring

Easy Subfloor Installation

The very first step we took on the van build was installing a floor. It seemed to be the easier, less daunting task that didn’t evolve cutting holes or any major design decisions. Also installing the flooring first would help protect the metal of the van floor from scratches that might occur from walking in and out during the build, and from the metal shards that will fall when we cut out holes for the windows and the fan.

Although fairly straightforward installing a floor is, it is also one of the most important components of the build. Without a solid foundation the rest of the build could have issues in the future. 

Tip - Something to think about during the whole van build is that any scratch on a metal surface of the van will be susceptible to rust in the future. 


This post contains affiliate links. The price you pay doesn’t change it just means that we will receive a percentage of the sale. This helps our small business and allows us to keep sharing our journey with all of you. We appreciate all the support.    



Below you’ll find our step by step process on how we installed our subfloor and approximate cost.

Noise Reduction

Before we built the floor we installed Kilmat sound deadener in between the ribs of the van floor. We bought a new van so the floors did not need to be cleaned. If you are purchasing a used van, make sure all surfaces are cleaned before installing Kilmat. In order to maximize the noise reduction benefits of Kilmat with proper adhesion, make sure to roll it out with hand rollers. The wheel wells will create a lot of noise so we decided to completely cover them with the Kilmat.

Furring Strips

We created a platform out of furring strips using 1” X 2” lumber that would be installed on top of the ribs of the van floor to ensure a sturdy and level subfloor. Adding the furring strips will decrease the amount of overall height in the van but it’s necessary as it creates a space for the havelock wool insulation. When designing the layout for the subfloor we prioritized the high traffic areas making sure they were well supported. The furring strips were glued down to the metal floor with construction adhesive and connected to each other at the joints using a Kreg Jig and 1 ½” Screws. To help the adhesive we placed plywood sheets overtop of the skeleton subfloor, added a bunch of weight on top of the plywood and waited 24 hours.

Insulation

To insulate the floor we added Havelock Wool in between the sections of the subfloor. This will also help with the reduction of road noise. We chose havelock wool as it’s the most natural insulation, toxic free and more eco-friendly than its alternatives. We used 2 x 3.5" Batts of Havelock Wool for the entire build, which we used for the floor, walls and ceiling. The amount of insulation per build varies, we just barely had enough for ours. We peeled the 3.5 inch havelock wool into approximately 1 inch sections for the floor.

Main Floor Structure

Time to install the floor base! We used three 4’ X 8’ X ½” plywood sheets and cut them into 4 major sections. We worked on one section at a time, making sure the piece fit before moving onto the next. Starting at the cab and making our way to the back of the van we measured all the little edges and created templates with cardboard. We traced the cardboard templates onto the plywood and made our cuts. Sometimes we would have to make further adjustments and cut more off to make it fit. Wood can expand and contract with changes in temperatures so we allowed roughly ¼” space between the plywood and the metal walls of the van to decrease the chance of rubbing or pinching. We added wood construction glue on top of the furring strips and then fastened the plywood down to the furring strips with 1” screws. To help with adhesion we added a bunch of weight on top of the plywood again and waited 24 hours. To finish it off we used wood filler to covered up indents from screws and any uneven surfaces. We wanted to have a completely flat surface so that there would be no weak points under the vinyl. In between the walls and the flooring we added Gaps & Cracks to fill in the edges creating a sealed off floor.

TIP - The Ford Transit’s spare tire is accessed through the inside cargo space. Make sure you cut a hole in your flooring to allow access to the bolt which releases the spare tire under the vehicle.

TIP - Make sure that the edges of each panel rest on a furring strip for maximum stability.

TIP - Use tape indicators to show where your furring strips are. Draw lines on the plywood that indicate where the furring strips are below. This will make your life a lot easier when you’re screwing down the plywood sheets.

First big step complete. Time for a dance party!

In a later stage we will be installing our vinyl flooring. We delayed the installation of the vinyl to prevent any scratches during the build. We will also share another blog on how we finished the edges and how we built the stairs that lead into the van.


Approximate Cost

$475 CAD

(Not including tools or vinyl sheet)


Thank you for reading! Add a comment below if you have any questions!

Previous
Previous

Why We Bought a Van